How to explain the surprise when, as we were skirting along the sea coast some 20 km east of Marsala, we came across the startling scene of large Greek temples perched on the hillside overlooking the ocean.
We diverted to the shore and anchored in 4 meters of sandy bottom immediately adjacent the one large temple we noted on approach. We dropped our dingy and beached as close as we could. However, it was a long, hot 45 minute walk from shore to the entrance of the fenced archeological park. Once in the park we headed to the large Parthenon-like structure. The scale of this temple to Athena astonished us as we approached. From the sea it certainly appeared large but it wasn’t until one could see the human scale of other visitors that one can gauge how truly outsized the structure was. The columns in particular were immense and I puzzled how they could managed to quarry, move and erect the various pieces. There were 3 temples on this eastern slope a second and third to Dionysius lay in a heap of rubble.
The Greek settlement of Selinute was established mid 6th cnetuery BC at the mouth of a small river that formed a natural harbour. The harbour has long since disappeared having silted up and vegetation grown over. The modern city of Castelvitrano has sprung up on it flanks catering to the summer tourist crowd. With long wide beaches and shallow sandy shores that fills up during the summer months mostly with regional tourists. The curious thing is that this site, which must have covered about 150 acres, with its numerous temples scatted about in ruins and heaps of stone was privately owned up until very recently. One could see the furrows of recent plantings and rows of olive trees in tended groves through and around the site. Strange to think that this same soil has been plowed and cultivated for over 2500 years. The site is now completely fenced and has active excavations ongoing. It comes complete with gelateria and souvenir shops straddling the entrance and large parking areas for the busloads of visitors they hoe to attract.
We were exhausted after a couple of hours clambering over the ruins in the midday 36 deg C heat. Water, sunglasses and brimmed hats are a must. We trudged the 45 minutes it took to get back to the still beached dingy. We motored back to Caprice in time for a refreshing swim off the stern. The wind had picked up and we headed the next harbour at Sciacca for 5:00 pm. We put out some head sail to take advantage of the following wind. We sped off to our next mooring.
